De los comentarios de este post en Ultimate Frisbee Strategy/Coaching:
-keep your “trunk” vertical, especially your head (esp. when throwing inverts)
-snap your wrist, as spin is important
-snap your wrist harder
-(the grip is hard to explain in text…)
-two fingers on the rim for a flick, regardless of the distance
-for backhand hucks, four fingers inside the rim is generally best
-for backhand non-hucks, do what’s comfortable as long as you get enough spin on it. if you want to stick your index finger on the rim, it’s not the end of the world.
-obviously, depending on how the person’s throws look and what they do, different suggestions might be appropriate… it seems that some players just have a knack for recognizing ways to help a developing thrower, so find one of these if you yourself are not one
-generally, grip the disc tightly
-try to figure out the difference between spin and directional velocity. spin keeps the disc in the air and stabilizes it, directional velocity makes the disc get to its destination
-try to get enough spin on your throws so the throw will just “sit” in the air for a receiver
-teaching people how to throw is mostly about watching them individually and being able to suggest tips which may or may not work
-often as people try to throw hucks (esp. backhands) they tend to a) step into their throws (i.e. move the non-pivot foot straight forward) or b) put too much elbow into it (esp. for flick hucks). in my experience, it is preferable to step to the side to maintain balance and to focus on getting enough spin and the appropriate angle on hucks, rather than just cranking them as hard as possible
-for hucks, start the throw slightly inverted and it will turn over as it moves downfield
-it is harder to throw inverts than outside-in, especially with the flick… so it can be helpful to work on bending the wrist in that way to get a clean release
-practice throwing as flat as possible
-practice throwing inverts and outside-in passes too
-throw even more
1. Four fingers under the rim. No exceptions. Changes of grip are a waste of time and sacrifice economy of motion. It is one more thing that you need to change depending on where you are throwing. One more thing that can go wrong. This is similar to people who change the angle of the disc when pivoting from backhand to forehand. Keep it parallel to the ground; keep it simple.
2. When stepping out to throw a backhand, step parallel to the direction that you mean to throw. There are small exceptions to this based on where the mark is, but for the most part, this gives you the optimal amount of torque to deliver the disc wherever you please. You can also step out parallel and keep your eyes on the target.
3. Never take your eyes off of the target. Many new players and some experienced players look down at the disc or look away from the target just prior to release. This is a horrible thing to do.
4. Use your off-arm to balance and enhance your throwing motion. It gives you counterweight and allows you to generate more power. That is, when you follow through, both your left and right arms should be going in the direction of your throw during and after your release.
5. Stop airbouncing. The plane that your wrist snaps in and that your arm travels in should be one and the same. If they are not the same, your throw will either airbounce or wobble on release. Picture two rails between which your arm and the disc will travel. There is jsut enough space for both, but if you change the angle of the disc relative to your arm, you will hit the rails. The rails will tilt with your arm’s motion, but not witht he disc’s angle. (This is easier to explain in person.)
6. “Throw out, not up.” That is to say, many beginners try to increase their distance by increasing the height of their throws. Your momentum should lead you forward after you release. Think of the first step that you would take if you were running from your backhand stance. That is where you should go after you release. This will focus your energy in a lateral direction instead of vertically. It will also help you in running immediately after the throw.
7. Not bending the waist to throw low is a crucial piece of advice from Tarr.
8. When throwing a low backhand, don’t airbounce it in order to get it to your receiver, throw on a straight line from your release point to the receiver’s hands. (As you improve as a thrower, and as you get comfortable with OI and IO throwrs, maintaining one plane becomes less significant, but not airbouncing is still vital– the wind destroys throwers who rely on an airbounce.)
9. Tarr answerd the power question best– it is convincing your entire body to work in concert toward one goal. That being said, I find that most of my power on backhands comes from my trunk/hips. The rest of my body just does what my trunk/hips dictate.
10. The best way to teach is to observe your students throwing and provide small tips and things to focus on. Then, brainwash them into working on those things when throwing with friends or when throwing alone. Give them goals to achieve (small ones, like snapping your wrist as hard as possible on every throw) and then check their progress when you next work with them. The link to the post by BLW has some great ways to work on those things.